Chile-Santiago-Excursion
San Alfonso, near Santiago: Andean magic in the Cajon del Maipo
The sight is breathtaking at dusk and at dawn in the small village of San Alfonso nestled in a canyon of the Andean cordillera, a mere fourty minute drive from Santiago. The mountains take on a reddish colour, as if on fire.
The Maipo canyon, in the midst of which is the village of San Alfonso, is a lush and luxuriant area where redwood trees and eucalyptus are often 30 or 40 meters tall. To the amazement of visitors, everything grows incredibly fast and fruits are abundent in the summer. A true Garden of Eden, to some. Peaches, apricots, prunes, figs and cherries have a flavour long-forgotten in Europe or North America.
Orange and lemon trees grow with baffling ease and even amateur gardeners can obtain in just a few years orchards that would make even the most seasoned specialists in other parts of the world very envious. Foreigners have begun to purchase crumbling stately houses dating back to the late XIXth century to turn them into modern and confortable residences. Some have launched into wine-making and produce a strongly-flavoured red and a light white reminiscent of Spain's Clarete. The Concha y Toro vineyard, which exports its wines worldwide, is only 30 minutes away by road.In Cascada de las animas, San Alfonso boasts a 3,500-hectare game reserve turned into a leisure center and the starting point for excursions. A further 40 minutes by road takes you to the 3,000-hectare Morado national park run by the Water and Forestry ministry. A hike path allows visitors to climb to the El Morado glacier, at over 4,000 meters.
Chile has invested heavily into communications over the past few years and villages in the region, such as San Alfonso and San Jose de Maipo, are connected to the internet. Communications are equally easy by cell phone.
The Calypso, a trattoria located in the midst of an olive-tree plantation in the Cajon de Maipo, with the cordillera in the background.Pizzas of all sorts, traditional and asparagus lasagna, spaghettis and a wide assortment of salads. Cannelonis with spinach are a must. For starters, pleasant antipasti with red and green peppers, eggplant, cheese and crêpes stuffed with mushrooms. The children's playground enables parents to enjoy a quiet meal
Open-air grill
La Vaquita echa, a pleasant inn in Pirque, a 30-minute drive from San Alfonso, is often full at week-ends and it's easy to figure out why. The meat is first class, well cooked on the grill and served with freshly picked lettuce or tomatoes. Entrecôte and fillet steaks, mixed grills, and all sorts of meat are available and well seasoned. A charming house with a terrace in the shade, small tables covered with red and white-checked tablecloth, watchful and friendly service and a fair choice of Chilean wines contribute to an agreable meal in the countryside, complete with moustachioed man strumming a guitar in the background.