Easter Island or the appeal of the never-never land
Why do the gigantic statues, or Moaï, which dot the island capture the imagination ? No doubt because they are remnants of a lost civilization of which we know virtually nothing. Its first inhabitants were probably a Polynesian tribe forced to seek another place to live after losing a war between the 12th and 15th centuries. They eventually ended up on this volcanic island 24km long and 12km wide in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, today five hours by plane from Santiago.
The Moaï were tutelar divinities erected to protect tribes and each represented an ancestor. The pascuan "civilization" - they were cannibals and carried out human sacrifices- was at its peak between the 14th and 15th centuries when the island had an estimated record population of 20,000. It dwindled dramatically as a result of tribal wars caused by overpopulation, reduced resources, attacks by slave traders and imported diseases such as tuberculosis and smallpox. The giant statues are the sole survivors of a mysterious past.
The island, which is cautiously opening to tourism, is worth a visit. Because of its special status, it has escaped the fate of the mainland coast. Apart from the Explora many bungalows, including those of Heva Propriedades ( www.hevapropiedades.com) offer good accomodation on land overlooking the ocean. Take a dip in the blue waters of Anakena beach while dreaming of the lost civilization of Rapa Nui.
Easter Island : an uncertain future?
These days, when visiting Easter Island, it might be wise to refrain from proclaiming your love of Chile. Pascuans are part of a Polynesian ethnic group, the Rapa Nui, and they resent people from the "continent". Yet, they owe them everything for it was the Chileans who took them into the 21st century: The island boasts a very adequate road network, communications in working order, health and education and a daily Lan Chile air link with the mainland.
But the local population is unhappy and the island was prey to a wave of land occupations last December, forcing the Chilean government to send in troop reinforcements. Pascuans accuse Chileans of illegally occupying lands that belong to the islanders. They complain of an influx of Chileans from the mainland who, they say, brought in crime. They also take to task tourist agencies for not investing enough of their profits into local development projects.
Pascuans, however, enjoy a unique privilege: they and they alone are allowed to own land. Incidentally, this explains why the island, which has 73 volcanoes, escaped the greed of the property developers who have scarred large parts of the coastal mainland.
Hardline nationalists number no more than 20, says the owner of a residence for tourists, but they manage to mobilise sympathisers who tend to disappear whenever the government stands firm. Everything goes back to normal as soon as the police arrives, he explains with a sigh of relief and satisfaction.
Rapa Nui never renounced sovereignty, proudly proclaims a banner hanging over one of the main streets of Hanga Roa, the island's "capital". Security forces did not even bother to remove it. Nationalists have contacted a U.S. lawyer specialising in the cause of indigenous populations but calm prevails. For how long is anybody's guess.
ON TRY: The Explora hotel on Easter Island
The Explora chain runs several hotels in Chile, including one on Easter Island. They are usually located in remote and spectacular areas - close to authenticity, proclaim its brochures- and provide maximum comfort. Not cheap, though. Expect to spend several tousand dollars for a few days. But meals, excursions and transport to and from the airport are included. Fishing, horse riding and walking excursions give guests the feeling of living an extraordinary adventure in inhospitable surroundings.
The island's Explora hotel, which opened in 2007, is some 20 minutes from the airport. It was built on a promontory overlooking a plain gently rolling down to the sea. No buildings scar the area where dozens of horses roam freely. The island has 7,000 horses for 5,000 inhabitants. The establishment boasts a pool (unfortunately it is not an infinity pool) and spa, vast bay windows in the rooms, concrete and light-coloured wood settings, and comfortable bedding. Simplicity and good taste, agree the clientele, mostly from North America and Brazil.
The only dark spot is the food. One would have thought that quality and simplicity, which are Explora's strong points, would apply to catering. Apart from an impeccable breakfast, with its delicious fresh fruit juices, it is not the case on Easter Island. The chef offers supposedly refined recipes which far from satisfy the palates of guests accustomed to the good cuisine of the old and new world. The crayfish ceviche looks like a purée where the celery annuls the taste of the crustacean. The hot foie gras is sickening and the carpaccio of artichokes with truffles is pathetic. The occasional grilled salmon steak or local fried fish offer some compensation but one cannot but regret the absence of simple local foodstuff. They are available and would be a far better proposition than having foie gras flown in at great expense.